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Part 11 of this series
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A supplement to Food and Society
Low temperature salmon and albacore

16 July 2011

Note: I don't like seafood as much as I like food from the land, so I haven't done as many experiments with seafood as I have with chicken, beef, and other "land-foods". My favorite seafoods are salmon and scallops, both of which I enjoy plain, without any sauces or spices. My next favorite seafoods are albacore and some other fish. I don't care for crabs, clams, or lobster. As a result, I don't have much to say about cooking seafood, other than this one short article.

 
1) Salmon cooked in a glass bowl
 
I prefer lightly cooked salmon
Trader Joe's sells frozen salmon, which I find to be a better quality than the refrigerated salmon that is sold at ordinary markets. However, the instructions that come with the Trader Joe's salmon advise a internal temperature of 145° (63°C), and they suggest cooking the salmon in an oven at 425°F (218°C).

My preferred method of cooking salmon is to put a raw piece in a bowl, with nothing else. No liquid, no spices, no sauces,  as in the photograph below. Then I put the cover on the bowl, and put the bowl into a pan of water that is held to between 50°C to 60°C (125°F to 140°F).

 
I consider the salmon to be cooked as soon as white droplets start forming on the surface of the meat and along the bottom of the bowl.

In this particular photo, I allowed the salmon to cook for quite a while, so there is a lot of juice.

Note: unlike beef juice, salmon juice congeals into a gel.

The salmon will not appear to have been cooked because it will be incredibly juicy and tender, but it flakes just like over-cooked salmon, as seen in the photograph below.
The bottom of the bowl will have a layer of congealed, white juice. When most people cook salmon, that juice is either burned, or it drips between the gaps of a barbecue grill, or it splatters all over the stove, but with this method of cooking salmon, all of the juice is retained. Therefore, instead of eating the salmon with a fork, you will want to eat it with a spoon so that you can pick up some of the juice with each bite. Also, I think this low temperature salmon tastes so good that it doesn't need any sauce or lemon juice. All I do is add a bit of salt to it. Sauces are optional when salmon is cooked like this.

When meat is cooked at high temperature, an enormous amount of juice is lost, and so most people prefer to cook large pieces of meat so that there is a center section that remains juicy. However, with this lower temperature cooking method, none of the juice is lost or burnt, so it is safe to cut meat into smaller pieces. The smaller pieces are useful for making soup, or to speed up the cooking process. For example, the photographs below show me cooking some small cubes of salmon. I begin by putting the raw salmon cubes into a bowl, with nothing else.

In this particular example, I did not let the salmon cubes cook for as long a period of time as the larger piece of salmon in the upper photograph. As a result, there are only a few white droplets on top of the salmon, and the juice at the bottom of the bowl is not as white, or as thick.
The photograph below shows that when touched with a fork, this salmon, which appears raw, flakes apart, just like the over-cooked salmon. Also, notice how incredibly juicy the meat is.
In the photograph below, I've eaten a few of the pieces, and this makes it easier to see the white, congealed juice.
 
If you perfer the salmon to be more well done, don't increase the temperature! Instead, just leave it in the hot water for a longer period of time and wait until you see more of the white droplets of juice on the surface.
Do you like the dark meat or skin of salmon?
As I mentioned above, I think this low temperature salmon tastes so good that I don't need any sauces or spices with it, but I don't like the taste of the dark meat or the skin. Therefore, I eat the orange meat, and leave the dark meat and the skin in the bowl. Then I combine the dark meat and skin with a sauce or other food. For example, I like it with diced and pickled cucumbers or watermelon, and here are photos of how I have used the skin as one of the toppings for a pizza with a sweet-and-sour feta cheese sauce rather than a tomato-based sauce, thereby creating a "Salmon Dessert Pizza".
 
Why does canned meat taste so different than fresh meat?
It is important to note that flavor of low temperature salmon, and its texture, is completely different compared to canned salmon. The same is true of albacore tuna. If you cook a piece of albacore tuna at a low temperature, it will taste much better than canned tuna fish. This also applies to canned turkey and chicken. I suppose this concept applies to sardines, also, but I've never cooked a raw sardine. What are these high temperatures doing to the meat?
2) Albacore
 
Low temperature albacore is far superior to canned tuna! 
If the frozen albacore tuna that is sold at Trader Joe's is the same fish that is used to make canned tuna fish, then the canning process is ruining the fish.

The instructions that come with the package advise setting the oven to 450°F (232°C). They also advise cooking it in hot pans, or on hot barbecue grills. However, as with salmon, I prefer to cook the albacore tuna in a bowl that is sitting in water that never goes above 60°C (140°F). However, I don't allow the albacore to reach that "high" temperature of 60°C. Rather, I stop cooking as soon as droplets of juice form on the surface. Unlike salmon, there is not much juice or fat, so there will only be a few droplets of juice on the bottom of the bowl and on the surface.

In the photograph below, I cut off a triangular piece of albacore tuna, and I am putting it into a glass bowl. Then, as with the salmon, I put a cover over the bowl, and let it sit in some warm water.

The photo below shows the albacore tuna after it is fully cooked, at least to my standards. There are only a few droplets of white juice forming on the surface, and only a tiny bit of juice on the bottom of the bowl. Albacore tuna is a very dry fish.
Unlike salmon and the scallops, which I enjoy eating plain, all by themselves, albacore is so dry that I prefer to combine it with other foods, such as making an "albacore salad" by breaking it up into pieces and combining it with pieces of celery, pickled cucumbers, or tomato, along with mayonnaise or some type of oil and vinegar sauce. 

In the photograph below, I put it on a triangular piece of my freshly ground, whole-grain bread that I made specifically to fit the triangular piece of meat. I can then add a sauce, relish, salsa, and/or other ingredients to make a delicious albacore sandwich. Notice that when I touch the albacore with a fork, it flakes, just like overcooked fish.

3) Toasting  fish directly on bread
 
Albacore is easy to toast on bread 
If you have some fish that you can safely eat raw or rare, and if you want to make a fish sandwich, or fish appetizers, then you could put the fish - or pieces of fish - on some bread, and then toast it until the fish has reached whatever level of cooking that you want. This reduces the time you have to spend cooking and cleaning fish.

The photo below shows an example, although - as with many of the photos in this series about food - it's only to emphasize this concept rather than be a serious recipe. I cut a piece of my freshly baked bread in half, and then I put three pieces of raw albacore tuna on each half. In this case, both the bread and fish are "plain"; ie, there are no spices, sauces, oils, or anything else on either the bread or the fish.

The photo below shows the bread and fish after I toasted it. Unfortunately, is difficult to control the cooking in a convection toaster oven since they were never designed for high precision, low temperature cooking, so I overcooked the fish a bit. However, it was still very moist and tasty.

Albacore tuna does not have very much moisture or fat, so the bread will never become soggy when you cook albacore like this. Actually, the bread will become even more dry, which is useful because it causes the bread to become more absorbent, which in turn allows the bread to soak up more of whatever sauce you want to put on the sandwich.

 
For this particular example, after removing these two, "sandwiches" of albacore tuna from the oven, I put several spoonfuls of white vinegar on both sandwiches. Then I put masala simmer sauce over one sandwich, and mild olive oil over the other sandwich. The reason I'm telling you this is to point out that - for reasons I don't understand - I prefer albacore sandwiches in which the bread is very moist with ordinary white vinegar. Why is that? Does everybody enjoy vinegar as much as I do? I also like albacore with mayonnaise, and with pickled cucumbers, pickled watermelon, or pickled tomatoes.
Salmon is also easy to cook on bread
Salmon doesn't need much cooking, so it's easy to make salmon sandwiches or salmon appetizers simply by putting salmon onto bread, and then putting it into a convection toaster oven for a few minutes. In this example, I put small cubes of raw salmon onto slices of bread.
The photo below shows the finished, cooked salmon. Unlike the albacore in the photos above, I watched the cooking process more closely, so I did not let the salmon overcook. This salmon appears dry and overcooked compared to the extremely moist salmon in the photos at the top of this article that were cooked in the sealed glass container, but that is because the convection oven causes some of the liquid on the outside of the salmon to evaporate, but the salmon is still extremely juicy and moist.
The photo above shows some of the smaller pieces of salmon, and they are more well done than the larger cubes on the other side of the bread, in the photo below.
Incidentally, the convection oven also causes the bread to lose some of its moisture, but this is actually useful when making fish sandwiches because most of us seem to prefer adding a sauce to seafood, so it's useful to have bread that is slightly dry and absorbent.

For this example I cut the salmon into little cubes to show how easy it would be to make salmon appetizers. After cooking, I could add a sauce, and I could also put a piece of pickled cucumber, tomato, or watermelon on the top of some or all of the pieces of salmon, and then I could put a toothpick through each of the pieces of salmon and into the bread. Then it would be very easy to cut up the bread so that I have lots of little salmon appetizers, each one on a toothpick. This is an easy way to make lots of salmon appetizers without having much of a mess to clean up afterwards.